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Makeup: General Tips - Face
Keep Skin Luminous
[Source: Star, August 2004] In 3 steps you can keep your skin luminous. After cleaning your face, hydratate with Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe. To prevent dryness you can try Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. Finally, before applying makeup make sure you always use a primer all over your face to stop foundation or concealer from slidding off - you may try Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer.
No T-Zone Shine
[Source: Star, August 2004] Easy: Makeup artist Nick Barose first blots excess moisturizer with a tissue. Then he dabs into an oil-free foundation or concealer. Next, he uses a velour puff to press powder into the skin. For touch ups during the day, always blot before powdering to avoid build-up. Some of stars' favs are Neutrogena SkinClearing Trio and M.A.C. Blot Film.
Washing Your Face
According to Cosmo's stylists: "You'd think it would be hard to muck up your face during that all-too-brief period between hitting the hay and greeting the day. But sadly, you'd be wrong: Almost everyone's skin accumulates some oil overnight, according to Arielle Kauvar, M.D., associate director of the Laser and Skin Surgery Center of New York and clinical associate professor of dermatology at the New York University School of Medicine. And though the oil itself isn't necessarily bad, applying moisturizer and makeup directly on top of it is. Plus, if you use any treatment products at night, their residue, however invisible, could mess with your daytime makeup. Of course, you don't want to overcleanse either, because that can lead to parched, tight skin. But a rinse-off in the shower isn't enough. Dr. Kauvar's solution: Wash your face both in the pm and am with a gentle soapless cleanser that won't dry your skin out."
Who N Why Use Moisturizer
Everyone needs to wear an SPF of at least 15 during the day. Another point to consider: "Oily skin doesn't make you immune to environmental damage such as wind burn or general irritation," says Dr. Kauvar. "And moisturizer forms a good protective barrier against that kind of thing." Plus, oily-skinned people may want the treatment benefits (pigment evening, line preventing, firming) often included in today's moisturizers. There's a slew of nongreasy, oil-free formulas that offer sun protection and are perfectly safe for oily complexions. If you have oily skin just make sure to pick potions labeled oil-free and noncomedogenic.
Concealer N Foundation: What Goes First
In general, you should always put foundation on first, then layer on concealer, says New York City makeup artist Bobbi Brown. For example, if you want to downplay a zit, foundation goes first, then dab on a blemish cover-up. (Preapplied cover-up would smear right off during foundation application.) The same technique goes for covering redness around your nose, except that you'd use a regular formula. An exception: To hide under-eye circles, use only concealer (applied with either your finger or a synthetic brush), not foundation.
Finding The Right Concealer
Makeup411's Leonard Engelman: "When a great deal of coverage is needed in a specific area, don’t apply heavy foundation to compensate. Use a concealer which should be applied easier, faster and with better results.
Forget all the rules on concealer: green covers red, yellow covers red and brown, orange covers blue. This doesn’t seem simple. Many companies have developed concealers that match the skin tone. They are formulated with a great deal of pigment so a thin application will actually conceal or hide the various undertones. This makes the choice and application much easier and the results flawless. Simply pick the shade that best matches the skin tone at the lower eyelid."
Concealer Application
Makeup411's Leonard Engelman: "Apply concealer with a small brush. This way you can apply the product in the same exact size and shape necessary. If you use your finger, the size of the area you cover is dependent on the size of your finger."
Where Is Concealer Needed?
As Leonard Engelman says, for the best coverage apply concealer in the following places. Under the eyes where discoloration is prominent. Between the inner eye and the nose often shows discoloration that can pinch the nose area, making one look tired, and can give the appearance of changing the eyelid shape. At the outer eye, where the upper and lower lid join, there is often a dark line of discoloration that draws down that can be concealed. You can also apply concealer to cover broken blood vessels and skin irregularities.
Your Perfect Foundation Shade
Selecting an exact skin-tone-matching makeup shade can be tricky. Foundation needs to be sampled in natural light, but most stores have fluorescent bulbs, which distort the color of the foundation, says makeup artist Leslie Lopez, whose celebrity clients include Catherine Zeta-Jones and Cameron Diaz. The trick is to dab on a touch of what seems to be your makeup match at the cosmetics counter, then head outside to check out your reflection in broad daylight. (If you're a drugstore shopper, look for makeup samples in magazines, or try out Cover Girl Tiny Trys -- a tri-pack of sample-size foundations, $1.25.) You can also check out Elizabeth Arden's Foundation Matchmaker (available at select stores), a device that determines which shade of makeup best suits you. Or get your own hue custom-blended by Three Custom Color Specialists or Prescriptives; prices range from $40 to $60.
¿Tinted Moisturizer = Foundation?
Nope. "Think of them in the same terms as lip gloss versus lipstick -- one's sheer, the other's more serious," says B.J. Gillian, a New York City based makeup artist who works with such celeb beauties as Mira Sorvino and Toni Braxton. A tinted moisturizer is a face lotion with a hint of color that evens out tone but still lets skin show through -- as lip gloss does. Foundation, though, like lipstick, has more pigment and allows for an opaque "done" effect. So, do you need both? Not according to Gillian, who says "The one you need depends on how much coverage you want."
If your complexion is clear but you need to even out redness, then tinted moisturizer is your best bet. If you're looking to camouflage acne scars or pigmentation problems, then opt for a full-coverage foundation.
Finding Your Best Base
Some women just decide which foundation format -- liquid, stick, compact, etc. -- they prefer. But beyond that, there are certain formulas that are best suited for different skin types. Here, makeup guru B. J. Gillian helps sort things out:
If you have dry skin: pick a hydrating or oil-free moisture formula. Most now have a time-release system that continuously moisturizes for up to 11 hours. Try Cover Girl CG Smoothers All Day Hydrating.
If you have oily skin: opt for a water-based or oil-free formula that's noncomedogenic (meaning it won't cause blackheads or whiteheads) A powder or liquid type will look most natural. Try Neutrogena Healthy Skin Liquid Makeup.
To minimize the appearance of fine lines: check out the new light-diffusing formulas that subtly scatter light when it hits your face, softening your flaws. Try CG Smoothers Concealer in Illuminator, and Magic by Prescriptives Illuminating Liquid.
To conceal uneven pigmentation: look for a full-coverage formula, usually found in cream-to-powder varieties. Try Max Factor silk Perfection Compact Make-Up.
Stay-Put Base
"Controlling oil and properly using powder are key to making your foundation last all day," says Collier Strong, L.A. makeup artist for Heather Locklear and Kate Hudson. During your morning makeup ritual, apply only a small amount of moisturizer, then warm up a liquid foundation between your palms before applying it; the heat from your hands will increase the makeup's ability to penetrate skin. Finish with a dusting of loose powder to eliminate excess oil and set the makeup. Touch up during the day with a dual-finish foundation (a powder and liquid combo).
Shading/Contouring?
Wondering what is shading or contouring used for? "Most make-up artists use shading or contouring to minimize fullness under the jaw area, emphasize the cheek bones, or give the appearance of narrowing the width of the nose," explains Leonard Engelman.
Blush N Eye Shadow Brushes
According to Cosmo's stylists: "while having your own set of pro-caliber tools is key to creating flawless makeup effects, the little guys that come tucked in with products aren't worthless. For example, while it's not ideal to apply blush with the brush that comes in the packaging (the results tend to be too streaky), that same tool could be used to sweep translucent shadow across your lids. And although picky pros recommend you swap packaged eye-shadow swabs for larger natural-bristle brushes, we think they're perfectly fine as long as you blend the shadow with your fingertips after you sweep it on. You can also use the tip of a sponge eye-shadow applicator to line your eyes or dab on concealer. One investment we recommend everyone make: a natural or soft synthetic bristle makeup brush that you can use for loose powder and blush. You need to distribute those products really well, and nothing gets the job done like a big brush."
Cream Or Powder Blush?
Your choice will depend upon what effect you want, says makeup pro Bobbi Brown. Powder blush gives a more finished look -- perfect for contouring cheekbones. Bobbi's tips for powder players: Sweep a large brush in circles over the blush, then tap to remove excess. Go up along cheekbones, down nose, and across forehead and chin. Cream blushes create a dewy, outdoorsy flush.
Bobbi's tips for cream queens: Use fingertips to dab it on the apples of your cheeks and blend upward along cheekbones. Also consider skin type when selecting a blush formula. If you have an oily complexion, Bobbi suggests a powder blush to absorb grease for a matte finish. Try Bobbi Brown Essentials Blush, $19, or Cover Girl Cheekers Blush, $3.50. But if skin is dry, opt for a more emollient cream blush to minimize flaking. Try Bobbi Brown Essentials Blush Stick, $25, or Estee Lauder Minute Blush Creme Stick for Cheeks, $25.
Translucent Powder
Translucent powders are designed to “set” make-up. The powder absorbs the oil or moisture in the make-up to create a dry surface on the skin. Translucent powders should not add color to your make-up. (Powders that incorporate foundations are used for coverage as a foundation and are not recommended for setting make-up).
A powder puff or large brush may be used to apply the powder as well as brush away any excess.
Powder Under The Eye
Makeup411's Leonard Engelman:You should smooth the area underneath the eyes before powdering to insure your application is flawless before setting. If you have applied concealer thinly under the eyes, you will avoid creases. Powder does not create a crease or accentuate lines-- thick make-up on the thin tissue under the eye does. Various companies have perfected shading or contouring powders. These brush on easily with a blush brush and are almost fool-proof. If the shading is applied too heavy, you can minimize it with a little translucent powder.
Where To Apply Blush
It all depends on the effect you're trying to achieve.. For a healthy glow that looks appropriate day or night, go the apple-of-the-cheek route, says Longo. Start with a smile to make the target area more pronounced, then apply a powder or cream blush right at the center of the chubbiest part of your cheek. Blend outward, keeping the more intense color at the apples. The cheekbone approach really only works in the evening, when you can pull off a more diva-esque look. Apply it directly on the top parts of your cheekbones (not under the cheekbone a la those '80s stripes). A cream formula is your best bet for creating this effect. Just blend until the edges fade softly.
Blush Colour
For expert Leonard Engelman deciding which shade of blush to wear is simple. "Once the lipstick and lip pencil have been selected, simply choose a blush in the same color family."
How to Kiss Greasies Good-Bye
Cosmo: During hot, hazy days, grease is all too often the word as our skin creates excess oil and sweat in response to the torrid temperatures. To stay shine-free, follow this oil-curbing advice: Don't wash your face more than twice a day. If you strip your skin of too much oil, you'll send your pores into overdrive to compensate, says Mary Lupo, a New Orleans dermatologist. Trade your standard foundation for one that contains a grease-absorbing ingredient like alum. Touch up your T-zone with a clear lotion or solid balm specifically meant to erase shine. You can try Avon Pore-Fection Mattifier cream or 5S Oil Block balm.
How To Slim A Chin
The best way to minimize the shape of your chin is to shade it subtly with a sheer powder bronzer that's only one shade darker than your skin tone -- use anything darker and you could end up merely drawing more attention. The key to applying the bronzer so that it's undetectable by even the closest of admirers lies in using the right tools and technique.
First, stroke a large blush-type brush on the powder, shake off all excess to prevent streaks, then sweep it under your whole chin area, blending down along your neck and up along your jawline. This will create the illusion of a shadow and make the area less noticeable. Try Origins Sunny Disposition, $17.50.
Another tip: Focus on enhancing the facial features you do like in order to draw attention away from your chin, says New York City makeup artist Barbara Stone. Go for a bright pink blush or a bold new eye shadow.
No More Ghostly Winter Complexion
Cold air cuts down on your body's circulation and moisture levels, resulting in a drab, dry complexion and under-eye circles. To cop a glorious glow, first replenish your skin morning and night with an oil-free moisturizer. Try Estee Lauder Clear Difference Oil Control Hydrator, $27.50. Also, reveal fresh, rosy skin by sloughing off dulling dead cells with a gentle exfoliant three times a week. Try Aveda Exfoliant, $17. To camouflage bluish under-eye circles, use a creamy yellow-based concealer. Try Physicians Formula Concealer Twins wand, $5.95. Finally, fake a beautifully vibrant face with a complexion-brightening lotion or powder. Our favorites: Prescriptives Blue Magic Phosphorescent Liquid Powder, $30, which is laced with optical materials that actually catch light to give off an intense glow; and Revlon Skinlights Face Illuminators Lotion SPF 15 in Peach Light, $13.95, a peach-toned lotion spiked with light-reflecting particles that flatters everyone. "It's great at covering redness and creating an extremely natural-looking radiance," says NYC makeup artist Mally Roncal, who has made stars like Lisa Kudrow shine. She recommends enhancing your newly beaming face with a shiny lip gloss and a swipe of pink blush on cheeks.
No More Matte Faces
This is the secret to get a warm face, leaving out the matte face [with no shine]! Don't use a powder on top of your
foundation. For the foundation choose an oil control (to not get an over-shinny/greasy-skin) on that T zone,
and uses a sheer foundation all over. Then apply cream blushes and cream eyeshadows keeping the wet look up.
Sexy Kitten Skin n Hair
Cosmopolitan: To beat winter beauty-wreckers, follow our strategy for shielding your skin and hair from the moisture-sapping elements. We promise you'll stay silky-soft all season.
No matter how many hours you spend in front of the mirror, no matter which pro primping strategies you employ, if your skin and hair aren't lustrous and lusciously soft, you're never going to achieve stunner status. Which is why it's harder than ever to look hot in the winter, when cold, dry air, whipping winds, and harsh indoor heating cause skin to get pasty and scaly and strands to suffer a frizz attack. So to help you fend off those winter-specific assaults, we've consulted with the country's top dermatologists and devised a sophisticated yet easy-to-follow routine that will seal in silky, velvety softness all over your bod. Go on reading here.
Glowing Guidelines
To look lit-from-within luscious, skip chunky glitter (which can seem garish), and use sparing amounts of sparkly shimmer instead, says makeup artist Michele Burke, who has made stars like Jennifer Lopez and Britney Spears shine. Here, her recommended ways to be radiant!
If you're sporting a sexy skin-revealing dress, sprinkle superfine shimmer powder across collarbones, shoulders, and cleavage to draw his attention to these oh-so-alluring areas.
If you use an eye shadow with major sparkle, keep lips soft with a sheer nude hue so you don't look overdone.
To use shimmer on both lips and lids, pick shades with only a hint of twinkle.
Mild Makeup Remover
First, make sure your makeup-removal routine is as gentle as possible. "When you rub around your eyes, you can take off the very top layers of skin, leaving you more vulnerable to irritation," says Rhonda Pomerantz, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York University. Use nonwaterproof mascara since it's easier to wipe off. We like Elizabeth Arden Two Brush Mascara, $16. Be sure to use only makeup removers that are formulated for sensitive skin. Try Almay Non-Oily Makeup Removal Pads, $5.50. Also, get rid of any eye creams that contain alpha-hydroxy acids and opt for an acid-free formula. We like Biotherm Age Fitness Yeux SPF 15, $26. You may want to try some of the new high-tech mascaras that don't require rubbing to wash off. These products form tiny water-resistant tubes around the lashes that will slip off by applying warm water and gentle pressure, using your fingertips. Try Kiss Me Mascara, $25, or Kevyn Aucoin The Mascara, $25.
Does drinking water really improve my skin?
Source: West48.com - "Absolutely. Water is the best beauty product in the world... and it's free! By drinking the recommended 8 glasses a day, you keep your skin hydrated and glowy, not to mention how great you'll feel now that you've got that icky caffeine stuff out of your system. It's great to help weight loss, as it has no calories, versus the 160 a can that most soda products have."
Does drinking water really improve my skin?
Source: Cosmopolitan - Usually, drab tooth color is caused by drinking too many stain-inducing drinks like coffee, tea, red wine and colas, says Jonathan B. Levine, an NYC dentist. You can sexify your smile in a hurry, but the method depends on how serious your stains are.
If you've just started seeing them, try using an OTC whitening toothpaste twice daily that contains baking soda, fluoride and protein-dissolving enzymes that fight discoloration. Your teeth should be several shades lighter after just a few brushings. Try Rembrandt Low Abrasion Whitening Toothpaste with Baking Soda, $6.99.
If you need more dramatic results, get a normal cleaning, including a prophy jet (mini-sandblasting) to remove dinginess. "Results depend on how much staining you've accrued since your last cleaning," says Dr. Levine. The cost is $85 to $140.
If your teeth are no longer white but a definite shade of yellow, take serious (but not painful) measures and request a laser and bleaching combo. Most procedures take about two hours (Dr. Levine keeps patients preoccupied with a flick) and can get your teeth up to 10 to 14 shades lighter (the tooth equivalent of going from brunette to blond). Costs range from $500 to $1,200. Ask your dentist about similar in-office options.
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